Lasers currently being used for hair removal may vary, but they all use red or infrared (invisible) light. The longer wavelength of these lights allow them to pass through the skin deeply enough to reach the hair follicles. When the beam of light reaches the hair follicles, it is absorbed by the hair. The laser energy is then transformed into heat which destroys the hair follicle.
Not all hair removal lasers are equally effective on all combinations of skin and hair color. While the earlier systems worked well for darker, thicker hair on light-skinned patients, only the newest lasers offer safe and effective treatment for those with darker or tan skin and all hair colors. With any laser system, an experienced medical professional that can personalize treatment is key for achieving optimum results.
The lasers used in laser hair removal are the Ruby Laser, Alexandrite Laser, Diode Laser, and Nd:Yag Laser. The Ruby Laser and Alexandrite laser have a shorter wavelength and are highly absorbed by melanin. This makes them more effective for light and fine hair, but not safe for darker skin. The melanin in darker skin absorbs the laser energy, and can cause blistering. The Diode Laser and Nd:Yag lasers have a longer wavelength that penetrates deeper into the skin and are less well absorbed by melanin. This makes them safer for darker or tan skin, but not as effective for lighter or finer hair.
The "original" hair removal laser is the Ruby Laser. With it's shorter wavelength and deep red color (at 694nm) that is highly absorbed by melanin, the Ruby Laser is very effective on fine and light hair. It cannot be used on patients with dark or tan skin, because the melanin present in the skin will also absorb the laser energy and can cause blistering. The Ruby laser has a small spot size, slow repetition rate, and high power consumption. Because of these factors and it's treatment limitations, the Ruby Laser has become less popular in recent years.
The Alexandrite Laser also has a shorter wavelength that is highly absorbed by melanin, making it effective on lighter and finer hair. It produces a reddish light that is just at the limit of visibility (755nm). The Alexandrite Laser is suitable for patients with light to olive skin. Because of it's large spot size (up to 18mm) and high repetition rate, the Alexandrite Laser is the fastest hair removal laser. This speed allows for rapid treatment of large body areas. The Alexandrite Laser and Diode Laser are the most widely used lasers for hair removal.
The Diode Laser is the simplest laser, and consists of a high power laser diode that emits infrared (invisible) light with a longer wavelength (800-808nm). Because of it's longer wavelength, the Diode Laser is safe for darker skin. With larger spot sizes and fast repetition rates, large body areas can be treated rapidly. Along with the Alexandrite Laser, the Diode Laser is one of the most widely used lasers for hair removal.
One of the newest hair removal lasers is the long pulse Nd:Yag laser. With it's longer wavelength of infrared light (1064nm), it penetrates deeper into the skin and is less well absorbed by the melanin. This makes is safe for all skin types, including dark and tan skin. With large spot sizes and fast repetition rates, large body areas can be treated rapidly. The Nd:Yag laser is less effective on lighter and finer hair and can cause more discomfort during treatment than other hair removal lasers.

The most recent advancements in laser hair removal combines electrical energy (bi-polar radio frequency) and diode laser energy with effective cooling to treat patients that were deemed untreatable on the earlier lasers. FDA marketing clearance was recently given to Syneron's Comet and Polaris DS systems for permanent hair reduction on all skin types (Indian, Asian, and African-American), as well as tanned skin. Syneron's innovative ELOS technology provides the foundation for their highly effective and safe non-invasive hair reduction systems. This is the only technology that is currently able to remove all hair colors, including white, gray, and red.
Most hair removal lasers use some form of skin cooling to increase the patients comfort and to help protect the skin from heat damage during treatment. Different lasers have different ways of cooling the skin. Some lasers use a topical cooling gel and some use a chilled tip. By cooling the upper layers of skin, the laser energy can be safely used to treat unwanted hair without blistering or overheating the skin.
Methods of cooling the skin include Bulk Cooling (typically applying clear cold gel to the skin), Cryogen Cooling (spraying a refrigerant on the skin before, during, and/or after each laser pulse), Contact Cooling (using a chilled plate or window through which the laser beam is emitted), and Forced Air Cooling (applying a high-flow, sub-zero air to the treatment area). If used appropriately, all these skin cooling methods are effective.
Lasers that use a Dynamic Cooling Device (DCD) have been shown to be the most consistent, comfortable, and safest way to cool the skin. They are effective enough in cooling the skin that it is unnecessary to use topical numbing creams. (Some patients have shown allergic reactions to the topical treatments).
The spot size of the laser determines how much skin area can be covered per laser pulse. Lasers with larger spot sizes (18mm) can cover more area much more quickly and also seem to be safer and more effective. As the spot size increases, less light scatters outside the treatment area, increasing the depth of penetration, and allowing the laser to be set at a lower energy setting.
Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) Systems are not lasers. They can remove hair, but are not as effective as most lasers. The cost per treatment is usually lower because of lower equipment cost and lower labor costs (performed by non-physicians), but the overall cost is higher for an equivalent amount of hair reduction.
